How do I switch in Gixxer

Put the exhaust flap back into operation

If you carry out the tuning measures described here on your motorcycle, you do so at your own risk. No guarantee or liability can be assumed for the tuning methods or claims of any kind can be asserted. Tuning may also invalidate the operating license and insurance cover. In addition, the tuning has negative effects on the factory warranty.

Due to norms that are difficult to understand For the phon measurements (at speed XX and at speed XX only XX Phon are allowed), the manufacturers use little tricks to avoid completely neutering the motorcycle.

In our case (GsxR 1000) this is the exhaust flap. This supposedly serves to increase the torque. Unfortunately, the opposite is a reality!

In cooperation with “Has” and “Gsxracer”, it has now been possible to help our “half-castrato” regain full manhood.

The exhaust flap tuning refers to the 2nd and 3rd gear between 2,000 and 5,000 rpm. An absolute increase in engine power is not to be expected, but a significant increase in power and noise development in the above. Area.

After tuning, not only does the front wheel rise, but the operating license also expires.

 

(Increase engine output in 2nd and 3rd gear)

A nice side effect:  RideTheLightning found that deactivating the exhaust flap eliminates the K3's acceleration hole at 3,000 RPM.

It's on

After the ignition is on and up to 2,000 rpm, the exhaust flap is open approx. 3/4. The flap closes largely between 2,000 and 5,000 rpm. The flap remains fully open from 5,000 rpm.

Tuning procedure

1. Dismantling

Remove the seat and raise the tank.

2. Set the servomotor

Under the tank on the right in the direction of travel you can see the servomotor with the silver “control disk” (photo below). The starting position is 3/4 up. If you now switch on the ignition, a self-test is triggered. The servomotor also runs through a self-test. First the exhaust flap closes (control disc approx. 1/2 turn counterclockwise), then the exhaust flap opens completely (clockwise 1/4 turn beyond the starting position).

The moment the exhaust flap is fully open, the ignition is switched off (thanks gsxracer) and stays off !!!

3. Remove the cable

The control unit is located under the bench. The largest connector is on the right in the direction of travel (see photo below). This plug is removed (first open the locking mechanism). Now you can see white clips on the side (this secures the individual cables in the connector), press these clips in (thanks has). Now you can pull out the black cable with the brown stripe (No. 33, see photo below). Then insulate the end of the cable with tape and secure the other cables with clips. Reconnect the plug to the control unit (procedure for model year 01 and 03). For model year 02, dhe bridges 2-pin plugs (thanks tl_alex and toni-toni).

4. Assembly

Reattach the tank and attach the seat and done!

5. The most beautiful

Test drive and hold on tight !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Exhaust flap control motor with “control disk” for the flap cables. The flap is fully open here

Plug from the control unit (photo taken in the direction of travel). The black cable with the brown stripe can be seen at the bottom right of the left connector. This cable was cut. According to the new method, it is now simply pulled out. You do not have the red tape. They are used here to control an additional attachment.

Here again clearly the cable no. 33. The cable no. 21 has the same color scheme (original photo by “has”, thank you very much!).

The cable lock can be clearly seen here. Simply push in with a screwdriver or similar (original photo from “has”, thank you very much!).

There is our villain: The exhaust valve servomotor - expensive and useless. Dismantled because of the Akrapovic complete system and because of the power-to-weight ratio: Now we can have one more curry sausage before we set off!

The two connectors are clearly visible: The small connector is 2-pin, the large connector is 3-pin. For model year 02, the two cables of the 2-pin plug are bridged when deactivating to prevent the F1 light from flashing and the GSXR-1000 running in the emergency program.

However: be careful!Some K2 drivers have found that the 2-pin cable did not have to be bridged with them. So: first test without bridging whether the F1 light goes into operation (K2).

Nothing simpler than that: with the ignition switched off, the cable 33 is reconnected (no adjustment required). This procedure applies to model years 01 and 03. In model year 02, the bridging of the 2-pin cable is of course reversed.

If, for example, you have now installed a complete accessory exhaust system, the servo motor is superfluous and costs unnecessary weight.

The dismantling is self-explanatory and does not have to be described separately. However, there is a special feature with the electrical connections:

Before mechanically dismantling, cut cable 33 first. Then switch on the ignition and let the engine run briefly (the F1 lamp remains off).

Model year 01: The 2- and 3-pole plugs can now be loosened and the motor is removed (F1 light remains off).

Model year 02: The 2- and 3-pole plugs are released and dThe 2-pin connector is bridged . (Thank you very much tl_alex and toni-toni !!) Then the engine is removed and the F1 light stays off here too.

Model year 03: The 2- and 3-pole plugs can now be loosened and the motor is removed (F1 light stays off). Proceed as with model 01 (Thanks Udo 1!)

To the Suzuki GsxR 1000 K5:

We haven't ventured here yet. The performance and responsiveness of this unearthly high-tech device are so convincing that an overhaul of the exhaust system does not seem necessary.

For friends of the 750 and 600 GSXR:

Dethrottling through the exhaust flap is not possible because it is not available!